Stok Kangri, 20,187 ft (6,153 m)

The german and I were taking breakfast at our usually agreed time, so that of course he was nearly done once I arrived late, as custom. Three young Israelis were looking worn and haggard in the corner, taking coffee and large meals. They had come down from the top of Stok Kangri the day before, making the entire 6,000 foot descent and return from Stok to Leh in one long, grueling day. How was it? A no-bullshit face hinted a story! The german always discovered the particulars. More strenuous than we ever thought, the response. Did you make the summit? Yes, but we were not sure we could. It had also grown cloudy on their summit day, and stayed that way for three days; the German and I had watched from Leh. Now we knew who was dissatisfied inside of those high clouds that we had hypothetically pitied.

At 20,187 feet, the air would be thin and AMS a reality. I’d already shared that I was looking to go up with a guide soon. Here, the Israelis had gone along alone, paying only the requisite 2000 IR fee to the Indian Mountain Foundation for a permit. And so the german and I decided that we could do it also. We’d go see Hero the following morning after breakfast.

Hero was the first man to climb the mountain, and thus recognized  by India as a hero, and dubbed so by the State. A funny and carefree man, now old and accomplished. Which guide are you going with? No guides, it is us. I guide the American, the American guides me; a testing wit. Here hero laughs. He likes this german. I did a poor job of listening to cautionary and practical advice: Hero authoritative barked the suggested itinerary, the route, the time to leave camp on the morning of the summit attempt. On the summit, he draws and speaks, you’ll will find Nunkun due west 142 km, the world’s highest battlefield near Kargil, 146 km northwest, and even K2 in the Karakoram range just inside Pakistan, 224 km at 330 degrees (author estimates distances).

Leaving Leh early morning on motorbike from Leh to Stok Village, we pass through the village of Choglamsar and stop for tea. A local takes a picture of our motley transport, the extra 200+ lbs on the back dogging the shocks and giving the German's Pulsar 190 bike a workout. The nearby narrow and truck wedged bridge tests the driver's agility also.
Leaving Leh early morning on motorbike for Stok, we pass through the village of Choglamsar and stop for tea. A local takes a picture of our motley transport, the extra 200+ lbs on the back dogging the shocks and giving the German’s Pulsar 190 bike a workout. The narrow and truck-wedged bridge crossing the Indus at the leaving-edge of town tests the driver’s agility also.
Proudly branded, Mitra, a concessioner, operated three camps along the trek towards the summit, the highest at around 18,500, before the final push for the glacier, face and ridge line. The young man stationed at this lowest camp an hour's trek up from Stok, was bored out of his mind and was to be dismissed for the season soon. Indeed, only one tent is left and on our return found his stocks down to tea. The other higher camps at 17,000 and 18,5000 feet, had plenty of eggs to boil and sugarary Kit Kats and Cadbury chocolates, as well as tupa in the parachute stock tents, where the young help was nearly always working his kerosome stove and Indian, foreign, climbers, guides and pony men laying about in the warmth. Tents could be hired for 150 IR per night, and even a sleeping bag for 100, with bottled water for sale also. Thus a trekker only need carry a 15-20 L pack with clothes.
Proudly branded, Mitra, a concessioner, operated three camps along the trek towards the summit, the highest at around 18,500, before the final push for the glacier, face and ridge line. The young man stationed at this lowest camp an hour’s trek up from Stok, was bored out of his mind and was to be dismissed for the season soon. Indeed, only one tent is left and on our return found his stocks down to tea. The other higher camps at 17,000 and 18,5000 feet, had plenty of eggs to boil and sugarary Kit Kats and Cadbury chocolates, as well as tupa. Inside the parachute tents, the young help was nearly always working his kerosome stove and Indian, foreign, climbers, guides and pony men laying about in the warmth. Nearby, 3 season tents could be hired for 150 IR per night, and even a sleeping bag for 100, bottled water for sale also. Thus a trekker only need carry a 15-20 L pack with clothes.
Latter half of day one, a fairly representative photo of the trail up to the camps at 17 and 18.5k ft. Pikers and lots of Marmots.
Latter half of day one, a fairly representative photo of the trail up to the camps at 17 and 18.5k ft. Pikers and lots of Marmots.
Reaching the high level base camp (18,500 ft) at the end of day two, the German and I continue up another few hundred meters in a neophyte effort to acclimatize. In the distance, the east face of Stok Kangri. It is recommended that we shoot to leave camp at 2 am. Nearly half way to this point in the morning, I'll have forgotten my sun glasses and return hundreds of feet below, wasting nearly an hour for a change to "see" the day.
Reaching the high level base camp (18,500 ft) at the end of day two, the German and I continue up another few hundred meters in a neophyte effort to acclimatize. In the distance, the east face of Stok Kangri. It is recommended that we shoot to leave camp at 2 am. Nearly half way to this point in the morning, I’ll have forgotten my sun glasses and return hundreds of feet below, wasting nearly an hour for a change to “see” the day.
Day 3's summit push. Just before crossing the glacier in moonlight, it is freezing cold. A sock monkey hat protects my ears. On the other side, a boulder field, where the sun will eventually find us in a few hours. We estimate 7 hours up from the base camp to summit, 5 for the return.
Day 3’s summit push. Just before crossing the glacier in moonlight, it is freezing cold. A sock monkey hat protects my ears. On the other side, a boulder field, where the sun will eventually find us in a few hours. We estimate 7 hours up from the base camp to summit, 5 for the return.
Just before crossing the glacier in moonlight, it is freezing cold. A sock monkey hat protects my ears.
Just before crossing the glacier in moonlight, it is freezing cold. A sock monkey hat protects my ears.
Continuing higher up before traversing the glacier, a better practice is to use crampons, and ice ax and line up. In our case, we just winged it.
Continuing higher up before traversing the glacier, a better practice is to use crampons, and ice ax and line up. In our case, we just nervously tromped across.
Sitting just below the summit on the first wide ground I find after a winding spirit over some nerve wracking scree, I capture the German making his way just behind.
Sitting just below the summit on the first wide ground I find after a winding spirit over some nerve wracking scree, I capture the German making his way just behind.
A view to the West. Nun and Kun would be approximately west, though don't see in photo. Markha river also, I believe.
A view to the West. Nun and Kun would be approximately west, though don’t see in photo. Markha river also, I believe.
The adjacent bowl, South East of Stok Kangri.
The adjacent bowl, South East of Stok Kangri.
The summit at last, after almost exactly seven hours including some misdirection existing the glacier as well as finding the ridge line from the face. Photo courtesy of Ken Tatschdis.
The summit at last, after almost exactly seven hours including some misdirection existing the glacier as well as finding the ridge line from the face. Photo courtesy of Ken Tatschdis.
The German striking a pose on the summit before turning into a bird and flying away.
The German striking a pose on the summit before turning into a bird and flying away.

 

stok_kangri_summit_Movie

 

After an hour or so on high, I carefully start down the loose scree, cognizant that "one slip and you're out of there". Photo courtesy of Ken Tatschdis.
After an hour or so on high, I carefully start down the loose scree, cognizant that “one slip and you’re out of there”. Photo courtesy of Ken Tatschdis.

 

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