Chitkul

Oringally I sought to turn off of the road tracking the Sutlej River a click north for Recong Peo and Kalpa. After some intense riding through an active rockfall whereby I watched a beach ball sized boulder zip past preceded by a layer a dust and later, heavy equipment and road outages, I missed the turn. Clearly, whatever Kalpa offered was of minor importance and I dared not to backtrack once I emerged and regained my wits at a hydro station, where a handful of idle english speaking school kids awaiting the bus informed me I’d passed in by 20 km. Instead, I’d follow the Sangla-Chitkul Road which began directly from the power station to Chitkul, which I’d already noted was worth a visit per an motorbiking Indian I’d met in Leh.

Past an enchanting forest and military check post, Chitkul is a hamlet of interesting wooden architecture with a small indigenous population. It was early to mid November when I arrived. If it were summer, I’d imaging the trekking from here would be world class, and have read as much about Rupin Pass near Sangla. I asked if I could hike to China; yes, but there would be nothing there and the going would only be up up up.

Towards Chitkul that marks the end of this road running away from the Hindustan-Tibetian Highway, and the end of India with Chinese boarder less than 30 km due west. Due south, the INdian state of Uttarakhand. India maintains a military presence in the area, including within the gorgeous conifer thick wildlife refuge. The Garhwal Himalayas start here also, running south east and falling largely within Uttarakhand (per wikipedia).
Towards Chitkul that marks the end of this road running away from the Hindustan-Tibetian Highway, and the end of India with Chinese boarder less than 30 km due west. Due south, the INdian state of Uttarakhand. India maintains a military presence in the area, including within the gorgeous conifer thick wildlife refuge. The Garhwal Himalayas start here also, running south east and falling largely within Uttarakhand (per wikipedia).
Towards Chitkul after turning south at the hydroelectric station about Karcham which is still about 200 km away from Shimla.
Towards Chitkul after turning south at the hydroelectric station about Karcham which is still about 200 km away from Shimla.
Another curve along the Sangla-Chitkul Road. Soon, the road passes through Sangla and serious of other small villages where it is less dangerously dramatic but as gorgeous especially as it enters a protected forest.
Another curve along the Sangla-Chitkul Road. Soon, the road passes through Sangla and serious of other small villages where it is less dangerously dramatic but as gorgeous especially as it enters a protected forest.
1 of 4. Clouds and blowing snow that seemed to have snuck in from nowhere. Chitkuls houses are almost all made of timber and have a warm feeling them them. The guesthouse I stayed in was poured concrete though I can't say the reduced risk of fire is a horrible trade off.
1 of 4. Clouds and blowing snow that seemed to have snuck in from nowhere. Chitkuls houses are almost all made of timber and have a warm feeling them them. The guesthouse I stayed in was poured concrete though I can’t say the reduced risk of fire is a horrible trade off.
2 of 4
2 of 4
3 of 4
3 of 4
4 of 4
4 of 4
Modern concrete construction in Chitkula, here my guesthouse. The owner was a nice gentleman, and together we cooked eggs on his kerosene stove in the downstairs kitchen. I stayed in the lower room, and being outside of tourist season, had a military man knock on my door very early in the moringin expecting someone else. I shouted "he's not hear, go away!" before at last answering the door and finding the man in fatigues. The solders appear to stop through to use the houses running water.
Modern concrete construction in Chitkula, here my guesthouse. The owner was a nice gentleman, and together we cooked eggs on his kerosene stove in the downstairs kitchen. I stayed in the lower room, and being outside of tourist season, had a military man knock on my door very early in the moringin expecting someone else. I shouted “he’s not hear, go away!” before at last answering the door and finding the man in fatigues. The solders appear to stop through to use the houses running water.
Looking east upriver of the Baspa, its source glaciers only 20-30 km further up in the Garhwal Himalayas. The local school is past town this way a km Im told by a teacher who stops by the guesthouse to visits with the owner.
Looking east upriver of the Baspa, its source glaciers only 20-30 km further up in the Garhwal Himalayas. The local school is past town this way a km Im told by a teacher who stops by the guesthouse to visits with the owner.
Turning back towards town from a few hundred meters east of the last buildings as I walked down to watch the Baspa quite a ways still below and along a steep embankment so that I didn't hassle to walk to its bank.
Turning back towards town from a few hundred meters east of the last buildings as I walked down to watch the Baspa quite a ways still below and along a steep embankment so that I didn’t hassle to walk to its bank.
1 of 2. Elevated, the wood radiants warmth as you pass. Steep slate roofs shed snow and wood can be stored underneath.
1 of 2. Elevated, the wood radiants warmth as you pass. Steep slate roofs shed snow and wood can be stored underneath.
2 of 2
2 of 2
The square hewn timbers leave lots of space for chinking, I am not sure what is used for materials though clearly an earth mud for the final seal. Post and beam construction give a warm relief.
The square hewn timbers leave lots of space for chinking, I am not sure what is used for materials though clearly an earth mud for the final seal. Post and beam construction give a warm relief.
Even the cemetery gates (here, doors) are wooden with slate roof to match the homes.
Even the cemetery gates (here, doors) are wooden with slate roof to match the homes.
A house sat off of a gathering square.
A house sat off of a gathering square.
Underexposed, a series of houses sit along the crest while the November sun sets in the west behind. The village of Chitkul sits in the Sangla valley with impassable mountains on both the north and south, though it appears a jeep trail may cut both directions just a bit further east of town. Modern stairs and walks accommodate visitors and walks projects seem to be common in India. Other modern and quasi engineered infrastructure includes water channels though a wooden waterwheel was thankfully not bypassed.
Underexposed, a series of houses sit along the crest while the November sun sets in the west behind. The village of Chitkul sits in the Sangla valley with impassable mountains on both the north and south, though it appears a jeep trail may cut both directions just a bit further east of town. Modern stairs and walks accommodate visitors and walks projects seem to be common in India. Other modern and quasi engineered infrastructure includes water channels though a wooden waterwheel was thankfully not bypassed.
Only overnighting, I leave Chitkul in the morning after an uneasy breakfast at the guesthouse; my petrol is nearly gone, perhaps having filled it last as far back as Kaza. I coast what is thankfully almost entirely downhill, cutting the motor and holding in the clutch until Sangla (which I passed on the way in though overlooked the modest station there). I pause to look back at a corner and to admire the roadway high above the Baspa below.
Only overnighting, I leave Chitkul in the morning after an uneasy breakfast at the guesthouse; my petrol is nearly gone, perhaps having filled it last as far back as Kaza. I coast what is thankfully almost entirely downhill, cutting the motor and holding in the clutch until Sangla (which I passed on the way in though overlooked the modest station there). I pause to look back at a corner and to admire the roadway high above the Baspa below.
A view forward on way to rejoin the highway 22 at the hydro power station after a short stay in Chitkul. Given more time, perhaps a nice place to organize a trek for the surrounding passes, valleys and forests. Here, where the road juts over the valley for the second in the middle of photograph, you can barely make out a white leaning sign on the left of the roadway; it reads "Drive Slow", and has been hit.
A view forward on way to rejoin the highway 22 at the hydro power station after a short stay in Chitkul. Given more time, perhaps a nice place to organize a trek for the surrounding passes, valleys and forests. Here, where the road juts over the valley for the second in the middle of photograph, you can barely make out a white leaning sign on the left of the roadway; it reads “Drive Slow”, and has been hit.
The bent warning ignores the quotable Yogi Beara's remark that "if they haven't figured it out by now, ain't no use telling 'em".
The bent warning ignores the quotable Yogi Beara’s remark that “if they haven’t figured it out by now, ain’t no use telling ’em”.

Leave a Reply